
Surfing is like art. Painters look at creation around them and are inspired to replicate it with their own style and adaptations. Think of any famous painting and most will be a twist on what has already been: The Mona Lisa, The Last Supper, Starry Night, ect. These painters have taken what already exists and tweaked it, personalized it. Surfing is just the same. Waves come to land after traveling thousands of miles then bend, pitch, curl, and break on the shore. Surfers add to the waves by joining them and drawing their own lines, and personalizing them. Each wave is like a clean canvas waiting for an artist to make it their own.
Why do we enjoy recreating, personalizing, and expressing ourselves in art or in surfing? I think part of the answer lies in our image. We are made in the image of the Creator. The One who expresses Himself daily as new babies are born, as flower bloom, as water and wind change a beach. We are being like our Father when we express ourselves in any creativity. -G
